Canonero is the Bomb!

I was influenced by a lot of different designers and artists growing up, not just fashion. I’ve already posted a piece on artist Tamara de Lempicka and I’ve got a lot more to add (a sculptor, illustrator and architect to name a few).

costume designer, Milena Canonero

Costume designers are some of the most talented people on the planet and rarely get the type of recognition that famous fashion designers garner. In film, theatre and TV, there is a whole different set of criteria that designers have to adhere to, the most obvious of which is time period/era. Beyond that, the designer must to explore the minds and personalities of the characters; what would they wear and why? There is a tremendous amount of research that goes into creating appropriate ensembles before the pencil even touches the paper.

Kubrick's A Clockwork Orange

I’ve always admired the Italian born, award-winning designer, Milena Canonero. Her first job in costume design was for the film A Clockwork Orange, directed by the late Stanley Kubrick. Then, in 1976, she won an Academy Award for her work on the film, Barry Lyndon. Canonero followed up with another Academy Award and a BAFTA for best costume design in 1981, for Chariots of Fire. She won a second BAFTA Award for The Cotton Club in 1986, but it wasn’t until 2007 that Canonero finally nabbed another Academy Award for best costume design for her work on Sofia Coppola’s, Marie Antoinette.

Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette

Chariots of Fire, 1981

Richard Gere & Diane Lane in Francis Ford Coppola's The Cotton Club

Although she didn’t take home awards for the other films to which she donated her talents, I’m sure we all remember her amazing work on The Godfather III, Out of Africa, Dick Tracy, Titus, and The Affair of the Necklace. In 2001, Canonero received the Career Achievement Award in Film from the Costume Designers Guild.

Sydney Pollack's Out of Africa

Madonna and Beatty in Dick Tracy

Not only does Canonero design costumes for film, she has worked on several operas and also served as costume designer for the popular TV series Miami Vice. So, I suppose we can credit Ms. Canonero with Don Johnson’s semi-iconic sport jacket and T-shirt look!

Don Johnson and Philip Michael Thomas in the 80's series, Miami Vice

Adrian!

In 1985, I bought the most fabulous book titled Couture, by Caroline Rennolds Milbank. The most amazing part of the story is that I picked it up at a thrift shop in York, Pennsylvania. Even though $15 was a lot of money for me at the time, I knew what a tremendous steal it was – imagine how proud I felt years later when I spotted it in FIT’s book store for $85!

Adrian, 1947 - Suit with gingham applique

 I read it cover to cover and learned about the early designers like Charles Frederick Worth, Madame Paquin, Lanvin, Poiret and Fortuny. I discovered names I’d never heard of before and studied them intently. The great costume designer, Adrian, really caught my eye. The cowl/hooded dress with laced up sleeves worn by Joan Crawford was so elegant I wanted to magically step into that page in the book and into Ms. Crawford’s dramatic ensemble…and into Robert Taylor’s arms!

Adrian gown on Joan Crawford for the 1941 film, When Ladies Meet

 Adrian Greenberg was born in Naugatuck, Connecticut on March 3, 1903 – he would be 107 years old today! Adrian attended Parson’s in New York which was called the New York School for Fine and Applied Arts at the time. During his career as Hollywood’s most sought after costume designer in the 1930’s, Adrian worked on at least 100 films including; the Wizard of Oz, Dinner at Eight, the Philadelphia Story, When Ladies Meet, Ana Karenina, Strange Cargo and Love on the Run.

Adrain dress for the 1935 film, No More Ladies

All photo credits: From my book, Couture by Caroline Rennolds Milbank