Pollini's Progression

After & Before

Jonathan Saunders for Pollini - Fall 2010

Rifat Ozbek for Pollini - Spring 2006

The only thing I could bring myself to purchase at Pollini the last time I visited the store in Milan, was a leather-covered, large-linked bracelet. I found the clothes to be too pretty for my taste. I guess I’m just not the “girly girl” type. But, they weren’t the frilly and lacey type of pretty; instead they were just kind of boring -- printed matte jersey dresses, fine gauge shapeless cardigans and the like. I was disappointed. I couldn’t really blame Rifat Ozbek, he had to embrace the Pollini woman and give her what she wanted. But, thank goodness British designer, Jonathan Saunders grabbed hold of the reigns as creative director in 2008 and shook things up! Saunders steered in a different direction and started “speaking” to a younger and edgier clientele. The next time I’m in Milan (God willing it will be soon!) I will definitely run into the Pollini store and pick up a couple of pieces.

After & Before

Jonathan Saunders for Pollini - Fall 2010

Rifat Ozbek for Pollini - Spring 2006

Photo Credits: Firstview

Gianni and Gianfranco

Milan Fashion Week is going to be wrapping up in a few days – time flies when you’re having fun! Two of my favorite designers growing up were Gianfranco Ferre and Gianni Versace. I can still picture Linda and Christie looking amazing in both of these men’s sexy dresses and leather… lots of leather.

Versace: My personal archives.  I wasn't smart enough years ago to save the date and name of the publication, so my best guess would be this is from 1988/89 -- but this looks so current!!

Maybe I’m a little dramatic, but I can remember exactly where I was when Gianni Versace was shot in 1997 and then 10 years later when I heard the news of Gianfranco’s passing. I suppose they were my “JFK’s.” Both times I was at work (different companies!) and both times I cried at my desk. What can I say? I’m a softie!

Ferre: From my personal archives.  Vogue magazine, August 1990.  Timeless, classic.  I would wear this now!

I was lucky enough to see Versace speak at FIT when I was a student. He was completely endearing, genuine, passionate and encouraging. I left Katie Murphy Amphitheatre that day feeling inspired… the world was my oyster! When Gianni was killed several years later, I was crushed. Versace was very print driven back in the day and the label has certainly gone through some transitions during the last decade or so, but it’s still going strong. Sister Donatella had the extremely challenging role of stepping up to the plate and taking over the collection. She has done a very good job continuing the legacy and the Fall 2010 Collection was no exception. Actually, it was exceptional!

Gianni Versace - Fall 2010

Photo Credits: Firstview

Gianni Versace - Fall 2010

Photo Credits: Firstview

While I didn’t have the same personal attachment to Ferre, I definitely felt a connection with him on a design level. I really understood and was influenced by his aesthetic. Ferre earned his degree in architecture, but started designing accessories immediately upon graduating. Soon, he began designing raincoats and apparel. He served as Stylistic Director for Dior from 1989-1996. While his signature piece is the white shirt, Ferre used the wide belt constantly (even when it wasn’t a huge trend!) and worked a lot with leather and leather treatments such as perforation. The Ferre label has only been without its father for a few years now, but it certainly seems to be enduring.

Gianfranco Ferre - Fall 2010

Photo Credits: Firstview

Gianfranco Ferre - Fall 2010

Photo Credits: Firstview

Prada or Nada?

Ah, Miuccia. Life is certainly good for her. Fashionistas, editors, celebrities and just about anybody with a pulse wait with baited breath for her collection to grace the runway every spring and fall.

As a designer working for several different companies in my past, I (and my peers) always looked to certain labels for inspiration. For the last several years, it’s been Balenciaga, Lanvin, Marni, and of course, Marc and Dries. But, it's Miuccia Prada who has always been sitting in the pole position when it comes to setting the trends and the overall direction for a given season. That’s power! Prada power.

 I admit that I’m a fan. As I wrote in a recent post, I scoured Europe for my coveted Prada flats that I’ve practically worn to death. But, sometimes I think she pushes the envelope a little too much for my taste. Don’t get me wrong, somebody needs to push it, otherwise fashion would never evolve and we would all end up looking like clones and wearing the same thing season after season.

Above are some details from Ms. Prada’s Fall 2010 collection that showed in Milan the other day. Chime in… let me know what you think of these looks/items. Yay or nay?